Imagine you are cycling along a sun-dappled riverside path, the Charente river flowing gently beside you, when you spot a historic chain ferry waiting to carry you across the water, for free. Welcome to Chaniers, a riverside gem in the heart of the Saintonge that somehow manages to feel both undiscovered and utterly civilized.

Surprising Prosperity

Once across you’ll find that Chaniers has an air of prosperity, reflecting its location within easy commuting distance of Saintes and Cognac. It’s quite compact and drops noticeably towards the river, so more recent expansion has focused on the higher ground on the northern side of the valley, away from potential flood zones.

Given that the river is navigable, it’s hardly surprising that such a promising spot attracted the Romans, the Saracens, the Normans and English, before being returned to France in 1375.

Fascinating Historical Secrets

Le bourg retains clear signs of the area’s long history. The 11th century Église Saint-Pierre was constructed on the site of a previous Gallo-Roman temple and was heavily fortified during the Wars of Religion. Both in le bourg and its surroundings are numerous elegant 17th-19th century residences which testify to the prosperity generated by the cognac trade, while the geometrical street plan echoes those of the bastide villages established in Aquitaine under English rule.

Summer Magic on the Riverbank

Down on the riverbank are two welcoming campsites, the larger of which (La Belle Rivière) offers serviced static accommodation whose themed structures include a carrelet sur pilotis. In summer months you’ll find la Guinguette de Chaniers, a large brasserie-style restaurant popular with campers and those navigating the Charente in self-drive river cruisers.

Increasing numbers of summer visitors are taking a pause from following the local section of the epic 350km Flow-Vélo cycle route to enjoy a free trip across the river aboard the historic Bac de Chaniers chain ferry.

The Moulin de la Baine

Just upstream lies the Moulin de la Baine, a huge seven-arched water mill reconstructed around 1670 by Louis XIV’s Commissaire Général Colbert du Terron to receive cereals transported up the Charente on flat-bottomed gabares (barges). They would then return laden with freshly milled flour to supply the naval dockyards at Rochefort.

Getting There

Chaniers and its companion villages lie on the RD24, bypassed years ago by the busy Saintes–Cognac section of the RN141, from which the Vallée de la Charente is clearly signed.

The TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine Saintes–Angoulême rail line passes through the valley, and the nearby Gare SNCF de Beillant has some weekday services. Access to the old town is via a level crossing just behind the elegant Mairie.

Distances and drive-times from Chaniers:

• Saintes: 7.7 km (11 min)
• Cognac: 21 km (21 min)
• Saint-Jean d’Angély: 28 km (28 min)
• Royan: 43 km (39 min)
• Angoulême: 67 km (58 min)
• La Rochelle: 82 km (59 min)
• Niort: 85 km (59 min)
• Bordeaux: 119 km (1 hr 26 min)

By train: The Gare SNCF de Saintes is served by TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine Ligne Régionale 15, 16 & 17 services to Cognac, Angoulême, Poitiers, Niort, La Rochelle, Royan and Bordeaux, with onward connections (including TGV) to Limoges, Tours, Paris, Biarritz, etc. The nearby Gare SNCF de Beillant (3.3km) has twice-daily weekday services to and from Saintes.CF de Beillant (just 3.3km away) provides twice-daily weekday services to and from Saintes.