Picture this: while everyone else is stuck in traffic jams heading to overcrowded beaches, you’re gliding through the French countryside, watching castles and vineyards drift past your window. Your bike is safely stowed onboard, ready for exploring when you arrive. No parking nightmares, no motorway tolls, no stress. Just you, the rails, and the real France waiting to be discovered.
Exploring France by train, ideally with a bike, opens up a world of possibilities. We’re turning our attention inland to destinations that most visitors overlook, revealing car-free opportunities that let you experience the country’s hidden gems.
It makes a lot of sense, in fact, particularly when most summer visitors are packing the beaches. By not joining those baking in the sun you should be able to find plenty of shaded spots in which to enjoy a picnic while keeping your cool. You’ll find that going car-free opens up intriguing possibilities like finally seeing places you’ve put off visiting because of the lengthy drives that would involve. The train, on the other hand, lets you relax while covering quite long distances, and when you reach your destination you’ll no longer have to spend time finding a parking space.
Planning Your Rail Adventure
So, where’s it to be? Trying to choose from over 230 places served by the SNCF network could drive you nuts, so try to look instead at onward connections from just one of the main rail intersections, a city like Bordeaux, Limoges, Poitiers or Tours. If nothing grabs you move onto another of these key rail hubs and see where its own connections might lead. This way you’ll avoid getting overwhelmed by options and short-listing a few potential destinations will be far simpler.
The Loire Valley: Châteaux and Royal Splendour
For our own short-list we’ll start in Tours, in the Centre-Val de Loire region, whose gare SNCF is actually a terminus in the vibrant heart of this historic city. With its partner Saint-Pierre-des-Corps on the nearby Paris-Bordeaux main line it’s well-connected, notably to some of the most celebrated sites of the Loire Valley. The TER Tours–Orléans line’s first highlight is Amboise, whose Château-Royal is set high on a plateau overlooking the river. Poised on the sheer ramparts is the Gothic chapel which contains the grave of Leonardo da Vinci, who spent his final years in the nearby manor house of Le Clos Lucé as honoured guest of King François I. The town is a fine place for dining out, and at sunset the chateau is a vision of loveliness from across the Loire. A 3km bike-ride away is the Chanteloup Pagoda, set beside a lake in landscaped parkland.
Beyond Amboise the TER line hugs the river to reach Blois, famed for the dazzling interiors of its own Château-Royal. Another reason to stop? Take a bike or bus ride to the magnificent Château de Chambord, François I’s hunting estate in the forest of the Sologne and now a haven for wildlife and cyclists. If that doesn’t appeal then the train continues to the city of Orléans, with a medieval heart, a huge cathedral, a world-class fine art museum and historic quaysides.
The other important river up here is the Cher, which has another TER line for company, passing the exquisite Château de Chenonceau (part of which spans the river) en-route for Vierzon and Bourges, the notional centre of France. It’s also where you can see the astonishing five-aisled 12/13th century Gothic cathedral of Saint-Étienne.
Following the Loire West
On the other hand, you can take a TER train in the opposite direction to follow the Loire west to Savonnières to visit Villandry’s world-renowned formal gardens or Saumur, home of the famous Cadre Noir equestrian school (UNESCO), a military vehicle museum plus the Ducs d’Anjou’s fairytale chateau, perched high above the river. Saumur is also on the famous Loire à Vélo cycle route, with other itineraries to ride locally. Alternatively, rejoin the train for the onward journey to the city of Angers or even Nantes, each of which is perfect for a weekend break.
The same is true of Tours itself, of course, which also offers a third option for onward rail travel, namely north to Le Mans in the Pays de la Loire region, where another magnificent Gothic cathedral rises assertively from the atmospheric historic streets of Vieux Mans, a world apart from the town’s world-famous racing circuit.
Southern Escapes: Limousin and Beyond
Meanwhile, there’s lots more getaway potential further south. The TER route from Poitiers to Limoges, both in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, for example, serves a string of locations which might already be familiar, but the line rambles between them through car-free landscapes you’ve probably never seen. Alternatively, take the Poitiers–La Rochelle line to visit a bustling daily market beside Richard II’s mighty Donjon de Niort, or to ride the Vélo Francette towpath cycle trail into the leafy Marais Poitevin.
Limoges is the gateway to a whole host of TER services, as is Brive-la-Gaillarde, an important stop further south. Between them their lines head in all directions, accessing some really worthwhile locations in Limousin and Dordogne, including Aubusson, Cahors, Le Dorat, Montluçon, Périgueux, Souillac, Tulle and Uzerche. If you want to go further you can even reach Figeac, Rodez and Albi.
Bordeaux: Gateway to the Southwest
Connections are similarly interesting from Bordeaux (which, incidentally you can also reach by rail from Brive via Périgueux). We mentioned direct services to Arcachon, Bayonne, Biarritz, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Hendaye, down in Basque country. From Bayonne there’s a TER line down to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, beside the Spanish border, while another regional line follows the Adour and Ousse rivers via Orthez to Pau. From the elegant Belle Époque town’s Gare SNCF you can wander through palm avenues (or ride an antique funicular dating from 1908) up to the famous Boulevard des Pyrénées. You’ll be rewarded with views of the mountains, rising beyond the Jurançon vineyards of the Béarn. Note: if you plan to explore the countryside by bike or see more of Pau’s other attractions you can travel more swiftly from Bordeaux using Toulouse-bound mainline services via Dax.
The Dordogne Valley and Medieval Treasures
A glance at Bordeaux’s other inland rail connections will reveal many more temptations. Chances are you’ll access Saintes and beyond from Angoulême or Poitiers, but the original Paris–Bordeaux main line is still very much alive and well, with onward connections from Libourne and Coutras. The latter heads via Mussidan over to Périgueux, useful if Brive or Limoges aren’t convenient starting points. The line from Libourne, on the other hand, follows the Dordogne past Saint-Foy-la-Grande and Bergerac, before crossing the river’s meanders several times near Trémolat. Change trains at Le Buisson for a run up to Le Bugue, Les Eyzies and Périgueux or continue on for an enjoyable scenic run past Saint-Cyprien to the fascinating medieval town of Sarlat, which is worthy of a weekend visit.
All the Way to the Mediterranean
The final rail connection from Bordeaux is an intriguing southwesterly run over to Marmande towards the river Garonne at Agen (from where a branch line heads through more beguiling landscapes while heading back up to meet the Sarlat line). Agen is famed for its tasty pruneaux, from plum trees whose ancestors were introduced by returning Crusaders back in the 11th century. If you’ve a mind to continue you’ll reach the historic pink-brick town of Montauban, or even drop down to Toulouse, Carcassonne, Narbonne… and the shores of the Mediterranean. Now that’s some train ride.
It’s a lot to take in (and we haven’t even mentioned Paris) but that’s the whole point. The French rail network will take you to places you never knew were accessible without long, tiresome drives, along with others you’ve always intended to visit but somehow just never got around to seeing.
France by Train & Bike: Travel Tips
Steve Molloy runs the popular website SeekTravelRide.com with his wife Bella. They’ve travelled across France with their bikes so who better to ask for top tips?
What are the rules for taking bikes on French trains?
Perhaps my most important tip is to understand the rules for bikes on the service you are travelling on. TGV, Intercités & TER each handle bikes slightly differently. On both TGV and Intercités trains, you must reserve and pay for a bike space, while TERs allow bikes on without reservation. Some TGV services only allow bikes that are disassembled and packed in a bike bag or case.
What if I bring my bike in a case?
If you plan to bring your bike in a case and store it in the luggage racks for free, don’t be surprised to find the racks full, especially if getting on later in the route. My experience has been mixed when I have had the bikes bagged to go in the luggage rack. I have always found somewhere to put the bike but there have been times the bikes have been stored in empty seats or next to the luggage rack.
When should I book my bike space?
If you are travelling on a TGV or Intercités train make sure you book your tickets and bike space as far in advance as possible. This is especially the case if you plan to travel in the busy summer period. TGVs and Intercités can be reserved up to 90 days in advance.
How much time should I allow at the station?
Train stations can be very busy places, especially in cities, and navigating them with a bike can be a bit tricky at times. Some stations have lifts to get you down or up to the platforms while some don’t, and you may need to navigate stairs. I plan to get to the station about 30 minutes before departure which has always worked well.
Does it matter what time I travel?
Early in the day is best to avoid crowds both at the station and on the train. As an example, I arrived at Bordeaux station late in the afternoon to a station that was packed with people and difficult to navigate with fully laden touring bikes. When I left Bordeaux the following morning at 7am, the station was practically empty as was the train.
When will I know which platform to go to?
Platforms are announced 20 minutes in advance, so this gives you plenty of time to make your way to the required platform.
Where are the bike areas on the train?
The vast majority of Intercités and TER trains that we travelled on have had the designated bike areas in carriages 1 and 4 on a four-car train and 1, 4, 5, and 8 on an eight-car train and generally have a large bike symbol on the door or nearby.
How do I store my bike onboard?
Make sure you use the designated bike space available to you. We have seen two different types: hanging and standing. Hanging requires you to lift your bike and hang it by the front wheel. The standing types are easier, allowing 3 bikes to lean against each other held by an elastic strap to prevent movement.
What should I do if I need to assemble my bike after arriving?
If you need to assemble your bike after your train journey just remain on the platform once everyone is off the train. I found it provides a safe and quiet place to get everything ready for your bike before you set out.
Are there any restrictions on bike types?
Recumbents, tricycles and tandems cannot be taken on a French train. Ebikes pose no problems as long as they are a standard size.